Do You Need to Let Your Nails “Breathe” Between Manicures?

Nowadays, nails are one of the trendiest accessories you can wear—the designs you put on your nails, we mean. Whether you go with 3D fruit or a darker cat eye look for the approach of fall, your nails say something about your personality, just like your jewelry. But wearing jewelry every day doesn’t pose potential health risks like manicures can.

We know that sounds scary, but taking care of your nails to prevent medical issues isn’t as hard as it sounds—and it doesn’t require completely giving up your favorite designs. All that dermatologists ask is that you prioritize your nail health, just like you would with the rest of your body. Give your nails the love and care they deserve, and every once in a while, let them “breathe.”

What It Means to Let Your Nails “Breathe”

So you’re noticing the quotation marks around the word breathe, huh? That’s because nails aren’t a living thing and they can’t actually breathe! Dr. Lindsey Zubritsky, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-host of dermatology podcast Skin Deep MDs, broke this news to us. “The term ‘letting your nails breathe’ essentially means to take a break from activities or processes that may affect the health or appearance of the nail,” she says. “It could mean stopping salon trips, avoiding gel or dip polish, or giving up acrylics.”

Essentially, letting your nails “breathe” means having naked nails—and while it’s just a saying, nail breaks are extremely important. Long-term effects of constant polish, gel, or whatever medium you prefer, cause nail dehydration. And just as our bodies suffer when we’re dehydrated, our nails face their own challenges when they lack moisture.

Signs You Should Take a Break From Manicures

We often experience headaches and increased fatigue when our bodies are dehydrated, but our nails have a different way of communicating that they’re thirsty. “If your nails start to feel paper-thin, peel in layers, split easily, or lose their natural shine, it may mean your nails are damaged,” says Zubritsky. “Other signs to look for include white patches, soreness, ragged cuticles, yellowing or staining of the nails, or redness or pain around the base of the nail.”

Let’s say you have one—or many—of the signs listed above and you decide to give your nails a break. Your next question is probably how long your break should be. Don’t worry, we thought of that too. “It really depends on the strength of your nails,” says Leena Ramani, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained hair transplant surgeon. “Keep taking a break until the nail changes that you see are getting better.” Once your nails aren’t bending and breaking at the slightest touch, you can slowly make your way back to your favorite manicurist. Keep in mind that everyone’s healing process is unique, and the length of break you need often depends on how long you’ve been getting your nails done and what treatment you prefer.

Are Certain Manicures Worse Than Others?

The short answer to this question is yes and no. You could probably guess that regular polish is the safest bet, but all types of manicures—regular included—can lead to dehydration and damage. More intense treatments like gel, powder, and acrylics come with additional risks like “allergies, UV exposure, or rashes,” explains Zubritsky. And the damaging process of removing these treatments is the worst part of all. “Using aggressive, harsh drills on the nail to remove polish can not only be painful or damaging but could increase your risk of serious infection,” she says.

Regular polish is better in that it doesn’t require aggressive drilling or soaking to remove, but there is still a crucial part of every type of manicure process that is destroying your nails: the cuticle removal. If you’re like us, you remember sitting next to your mom in the nail salon when you were younger and hearing her tell the manicurist, “No cuticle cut, please.” Do you still implement your mother’s advice years later? Yeah, neither do we—but we really should.

“The whole function of those little pieces of dead skin is to protect the stem cells of the nails—called the nail matrix,” explains Ramani. “When you aggressively remove that, you’re opening up the nail matrix to the environment, making it easier for the bacteria and yeast to get in, leading to chronic infections.” The cuticle cut is part of every manicure process, unless you specifically tell your manicurist no, but nowadays, it’s important to ask for no cuticle removal, not just no cut. “They now use this liquid cuticle remover made of lye,” or sodium hydroxide,” says Ramani. “That lye is so strong that it dissolves the cuticle.” Be specific when instructing for no cuticle removal at the salon because the new liquid tools are sneaky.

What to Do During a Manicure Break

So your most recent manicure has been removed—hopefully in the least damaging way possible—and you’re embarking on a break. Let’s talk about the products you need and the healthy habits you should practice. “While taking a break from salons, focus on protecting and repairing,” says Zubritsky. “I recommend using a cuticle oil or even petroleum jelly to the cuticles, keep nails short, and apply a thick, rich hand cream containing ingredients like ceramides to restore the skin barrier.” One of Zubritsky’s favorite products is Sally Hansen’s Vitamin E Nail and Cuticle Oil, and one of her lifestyle hacks is eating a diet rich in protein, iron, and B vitamins.

For Ramani, a top product is DermaNail’s Nail Conditioner. She also suggests using hand cream every time you wash your hands and wearing dishwashing gloves. “Dry hands and dry nails go together,” she says.

When to Seek Medical Attention

While most nail damage from manicures can be cured with a little at-home TLC, there are certain signs to look out for that call for a trip to the dermatologist. “If you ever notice a dark streak on your nail, I recommend making an appointment to see a dermatologist as soon as possible,” says Zubritsky. “While rare, dark streaks under the nails may be a sign of skin cancer called subungual melanoma.” Other red flags include yellow or green discoloration, pus, pain, and swelling. Bottom line: it’s better to be safe than sorry, and dermatologists are always there to provide suggestions and ease your concerns.