8 Skincare Myths Debunked by a Dermatologist

There are all sorts of dos and don’ts surrounding anti-aging skincare, and the lines can become quite blurry between what’s fact and fiction. 

To clear up some of the untruths we often hear, Real Simple spoke with Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist, on the myths his patients commonly believe. He explained why this beauty folklore should be forgotten, and shared eight anti-aging products he actually recommends for aging skin—they’re all under $50 at Amazon.

Dermatologist-Recommended Anti-Aging Skincare Under $50

Myth: The only way to treat skin sagging is with surgery

What Works: RoC Derm Correxion Retinol Firming Serum Stick

According to Dr. Zeichner, collagen is the foundation of the skin structure, and with age, collagen production slows down (particularly after 30). Additionally, UV light exposure causes inflammation in the skin and harms existing collagen and elastic fibers—all of this leads to skin sagging. “Think about it like a fitted sheet over your bed, and over time it becomes loose,” says Dr. Zeichner. But he notes that there are things besides going under the knife that you can do if you already have sagging skin, using retinol is one.  

“Retinol stimulates collagen production to improve skin tone, skin texture, and firmness,” says Dr. Zeichner. He recommends RoC’s retinol firming serum stick, which combines stabilized pure retinol with a patented compound known as THPE (Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine) for a firming effect. “This has been proven to cause contraction of skin cells. It gives an instant firming benefit,” he explains. We especially love that the stick form offers an easy on-the-go application. 

Myth: Skin around the eyes is too sensitive for retinol

What Works: RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Eye Cream

“The skin around the eyes is among the thinnest and most sensitive on the body,” shares Dr. Zeichner. “That, coupled with daily facial expressions from smiling and squinting, leads to wrinkling in this area earlier than on other parts of the face.” Because of this, we develop eye wrinkles earlier than wrinkles on other parts of the face. Zeichner notes that, though retinol can be irritating for many people, there are newer products on the market that are especially formulated for that area that will allow you to use it on the sensitive skin around the eyes.

His recommendation is the RoC Retinol Eye Cream, which “combines hydrating ingredients to protect the sensitive skin in [the eye area], as well as a purified form of retinol that has been shown to not cause irritation.” Ta-da, myth busted! 

Myth: You have to drink eight glasses of water to maintain skin hydration

What Works: Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Gel Cream

Contrary to popular belief, drinking eight glasses of water will not hydrate your skin, and drinking fewer than eight glasses of water will not lead to dry skin, per Zeicher. “It’s important to maintain proper hydration for overall health, but dry skin is often dependent on genetics, environmental factors (like personal care products), and drinking water does not necessarily change your genetics,” he says.

If you have dry skin, Dr. Zeichner recommends choosing appropriate cleansers that won’t overly strip the complexion and moisturizers that will help repair the skin barrier and provide hydration. Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost Gel Cream does exactly that, by delivering hyaluronic acid to the skin. “You can think of hyaluronic acid as a sponge that pulls in water to the outer skin layer,” Zeichner explains. 

Myth: Expensive skincare products are better

What Works: Korres Apothecary Wild Rose Spotless Serum

Oftentimes, the cost of a product depends not only on what’s in the bottle, but the bottle itself. So while you may be paying for specific ingredients or technologies, you also may be paying for shelfie-worthy packaging. 

While some ingredients actually are expensive to formulate; (i.e. vitamin C because of how unstable it is) there are certainly effective and affordable over-the-counter serums and products that work well and get results. One product that Dr. Zeichner recommends is the Korres Wild Rose Spotless Serum, which contains 15 percent vitamin C with rose oil to effectively brighten the skin, lighten dark spots, and even skin tone. 

Myth: Cold water will shrink your pores

What Works: Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water 

It’s a complete myth that hot water opens your pores and cold water closes them. There are no walls around the muscles of your pores, so they don’t open and close, as per Dr. Zeichner. You can minimize their appearance by removing as much oil, dirt, and residue that sits along the outside of the surface of the pores, making them appear larger. 

He says you want to make sure you’re using an effective cleanser, and look for a product that contains salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that helps remove excess oil from the surface of the skin. The Garnier Micellar Cleansing Water has little oil molecules (or micelles) that attract oil from the skin to gently cleanse it without causing irritation, and salicylic acid that helps minimize the appearance of pores by removing excess oil. 

Myth: Creams that lighten dark spots will lighten your skin tone

What Works: Eucerin Radiant Tone Dual Serum Dark Spot Corrector

According to Dr. Zeichner, we develop dark spots because of exposure to UV light and pollution, which stimulates the activity of our pigment-producing cells. And while there are topical creams and serums that can help lighten dark spots, some of these not only block the production of pigmentation within the dark spots, but they will also block the production of pigmentation in the rest of your skin. “One ingredient notorious for doing this is hydroquinone; this and many other skin-lightening ingredients work by blocking enzymes responsible for the production of melanin or pigment,” Dr. Zeichner says.

He shares that the newest ingredients for fading dark spots won’t lighten your overall skin tone, they’ll just give you an even color. His recommendation is the Eucerin radiant tone serum, which contains a novel ingredient called thiamidol. “This has been shown to lighten abnormal dark spots but leave your background skin color alone.” 

Myth: Wearing sunscreen is only for sunny days 

What Works: La Roche Anthelios Posay Melt-In Milk Sunscreen SPF 60

Whether you’re commuting to work or having lunch outdoors, you are exposing yourself to UV light on a regular basis, Dr. Zeichner explains. “While of course you want to prevent sunburns at the beach, you also want to protect yourself from daily exposures that you may not even realize that you’re getting,” he says. “Even low-grade, incidental light exposure adds up over a lifetime. And UVA rays, which are the sun rays that contribute to the development of skin cancers, can actually penetrate right through window glass.” 

Dr. Zeichner’s go-to sunscreen is the La Roche Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk Sunscreen, which he says is great for all skin tones since it completely melts into the skin. But most importantly, he just wants everyone to wear sunscreen on a daily basis, even if it’s a moisturizer with SPF. 

Myth: Acne breakouts stop when you get older

What Works: Differin Gel Adapalene Gel 0.1%

Dr. Zeichner has seen a huge surge in women over the age of 25 who develop acne for the first time, even if they didn’t have it when they were younger. He says that the three main contributing factors are hormonal fluctuations, diet, and stress. 

“One of the go-to ingredients for the treatment of adult women with acne is adapalene, which is a prescription-strength topical retinoid that has been available over the counter for several years,” he explains. “It essentially works like a pipe cleaner, keeping the pores clear, preventing blockages and pimples from developing.” 

Zeichner recommends Differin Gel Adapalene, which is approved to treat acne, but as a topical retinoid, also improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, offering a two-in-one product for women who are prone to breakouts and have these other anti-aging skincare concerns.