Among all the chemical exfoliators, mandelic acid is definitely one of the lesser known. You may already be familiar with glycolic acid and azelaic acid, which are featured in many skin care products and popular with skinfluencers on TikTok, but mandelic acid is on the rise as the It ingredient of the moment.
Similar to other chemical exfoliators, mandelic acid helps eliminate dead skin cells to smooth texture, treat breakouts, and brighten skin. However, mandelic acid has a few key characteristics that make it stand out.
According to Sofie Pavitt, esthetician and founder of Sofie Pavitt Face, mandelic acid is suitable for both sensitive skin and melanated skin. Pavitt is a big fan of using mandelic acid in skin care, featuring the ingredient in her cult-favorite Mandelic Acid Exfoliating & Clearing Serum.
“Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA),” explains Pavitt. “AHAs help promote the skin’s natural exfoliation process by working on the surface of the skin. Mandelic has a larger molecular size, which allows it to penetrate more slowly and can therefore be less irritating than other exfoliating acids. I love it for all skin tones. It minimizes the risk of hyperpigmentation with darker skin tones, unlike other AHA acids.”
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Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
Hyper Skin Gentle Brightening Gel Cleanser with Mandelic Acid
What does mandelic acid do?
Similar to other exfoliating acids, mandelic acid gently dissolves the bonds between dead skin and the healthy skin underneath. “The gentle buffing away of dead cells reveals smoother, brighter, clearer looking skin,” says Pavitt. “Some people may experience minor irritation, but mandelic is a gentler exfoliator and most people tolerate it really well. I like to tell clients to start slow by adding in every other day to begin with, working up to daily use as your only daily exfoliant.”
How do I use mandelic acid in my skin care routine?
Like most chemical exfoliants, you’ll want to slowly introduce it to your routine. “We recommend starting once every other day to see how your skin responds,” says Pavitt. “We recommend a routine of cleansing, treating, and hydrating, so mandelic acid would be your second step after cleansing. After about two weeks, work up to daily use, alternating in your routine with other actives.”
“If you’re using other actives, you’ll want to alternate with mandelic in your routine so as to not overdo it,” says Pavitt.
